Agern

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For the last few months, when I’ve been early for a train and wandering through Grand Central Station, I’ve found myself in the new food court across the hall from the escalators to the Pan Am Building (sometimes I have a hard time updating names). As those of you who’ve been there know, it’s gorgeous and part of a successful improvement program for GCS, and it’s the creation of the co-founder of Copenhagen’s famed restaurant, NOMA.

On the back wall of the food court (the west wall) is Agern — a gorgeous restaurant –impeccable, calm, warm, simple and really well done. Staff is knowledgeable, professional and you get the sense that they want you to like them and enjoy the experience they are providing.

There’s a philosophy at work — not unlike at NOMA — that focuses on local, seasonal ingredients and, although we thought the food a little contrived and earthy for our taste, it’s lovely. We chose from the à la carte menu so we didn’t get the full experience, and my sense is that we should have had one of the two tasting dinners. It’s unlikely we’ll be returning so fast. Note: the highlight of dinner was the warm homemade bread and whipped butter that starts the meal.

Finally, you can’t tip anyone for anything — not even the coat check person — tips are included in the price.

Doug Anderson

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2 Responses to “Agern”

  1. i have done the tasting menu. i liked it, but frankly prefer ordering ala carte: the halibut for two was terrific.
    I rank it as 4 stars and a “visit twice a year” kind of place.

  2. Funny, I met someone in Grand Central Station and she wanted to go to Agern for lunch so we walked in. They have a $55 two course lunch and I had the sea bass to start then a dish called potato that was superb. We were at a 4 top table so we could talk without making new friends and we were there for two hours. It was terrific.

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