Author: Steve Dow

Flora Bar

I tend to stay away from the upper east side, but there is a fine new edition that is worth the trip ( for us “south half of Manhattan” types): Flora Bar, located in the lower courtyard level of the …Read More

Günter Seeger

As my friends and I were finishing a creative and tasty meal a couple weeks ago at Günter Seeger, we all found ourselves concluding: it just seems how uncanny how we love restaurants that Pete Wells finds “off-putting.” It is …Read More


  Last week I had one of the most interesting, innovative, unusual and delicious dinners I’ve ever had in NYC: Semilla, a small new restaurant in Brooklyn that describes itself as “vegetable forward.” It is not a vegetarian restaurant, but …Read More

Letter from Spain

Continuing on from Paris and our fabulous Lunch at Spring, we head to Bilbao. We arrive just after sunset, but with still enough light to appreciate the scenery. It is quite a sight to emerge through the tunnel onto a …Read More

Letter from Copenhagen

From the old hot new foodie center of the past 15 years (northern Spain) to the new hot new foodie center: Copenhagen. Despite advanced planning and some serious connection pulling, I was unable to land a reservation at “THE” restaurant: …Read More

Letter from Berlin

Pauly Saal Berlin is not yet a “foodie” city, but there are good meals to be had. One of those is Pauly Saal. Located in old 1928 building that once was a Jewish girl’s school, Pauly Saal delivers a really …Read More

Letter from Paris

Despite the best “striking” efforts of the Air France pilots to mess with our trip, we managed to find alternate routes to get to Paris. We arrive late Friday morning, drop the bags at the hotel and hoof it to …Read More

Atera Restaurant

  Atera, at 77 Worth St in NYC, is a tasting-menu-only restaurant that has twice (two for two) delivered a truly special dining experience. They do two seatings ‹and the seating is around a U-shaped counter that faces the kitchen. …Read More

Le Restaurant @ All Good Things

For the adventuresome eater I can recommend “Le Restaurant @ All Good Things” (102 Franklin Street at Church Street). A tasting menu only (although they will adjust for allergies), the kitchen is located in the basement of a market in …Read More


  Hadn’t been back for a while. I realize the pizza, more than most food, is like art: beauty is in the eye of the beholder —- if for no other reason than there are so many styles. That said, …Read More


  A gem in Greenwich Village. Small but well executed menu. They do a lot of vegetables — which is a good thing, because their suckling pig is awesome ( fantastic presentation and perfect modest portion) and bucatini will create …Read More

Ristorante Morini

Like Costata, Morini is part of the Michael White empire. Normally I wouldn’t go so far into the upper east side to eat, but I was meeting two people who live in different parts of Connecticut, and Madison at 86th …Read More


  What can I say, I like the place. Been three time. First of all, one of the best bars around. They really know how to craft a cocktail. My two tests for a bar are a gin martini and …Read More

Letter from Paris

A mid-November food and wine trip to Europe (France, Germany, Italy) started with two days in Paris. Day one lunch: Le Comptoir du Relais (at the Hotel Relais St Germain). Consistently my favorite restaurant in Paris and, in my humble …Read More

Letter from Germany

Six Stars in the Forest: About a 75-minute drive east of Strasbourg, France, is a small town in the Black Forest called Baiersbronn. Beautiful mountains, trees and streams. What makes this place special for visitors (at least the foodie kind) …Read More

Letter from Italy

A Whiter Shade of Truffle (a culinary nod to Procol Harum). A car ride from Baiersbronn, a gorgeous train trip over the Alps from Basel to Milan, followed by a westerly drive to Barolo and truffle country, we arrive a …Read More

Charlie Bird Restaurant

Definitely go! Well executed, non-fussy food — Italian influenced but not what you would call an Italian restaurant. Small, a bit packed and a healthy bar scene. I think it one of the most interesting places to open in the …Read More

The Mark Restaurant

Can’t disagree with Fred Rubinstein’s recent review in the VDP [see below] on this Jean-Georges location. Six of us went and our conclusion was this was the “Jean-Georges Diner” — and was, from a food standpoint, simply OK if one’s expectations …Read More

Letter from Berlin

I hadn’t been to Berlin. What a mistake. A fascinating city — and so different from my extensive travels in the former West Germany. We will be going back several times. While the former West Berlin ( FWB) is interesting, the …Read More

Letter from Paris

The  large city in the world I prefer above all others. Of course, it isn’t a real city, given that the central core of it is preserved so as to have a Disney-esque constant experience whenever one visits. And, my …Read More


Recently ate at Costata — Michael White’s newest restaurant. It’s on Spring Street -— just a couple doors down from Aquagrill. I was frankly shocked at the new NYTimes review that give it no stars. I wondered if I had gone …Read More

Blue Ribbon Sushi

This  is located on Sullivan Street in Greenwhich Village. Highly rated and just never had found myself able to get there. Finally did. My thoughts: Good but not great. Don’t need to go back.  Nothing wrong, just no “wow” factor. The more I try sushi …Read More


KURUMA ( 7 East 47th Street) My opinion: best sushi in USA ( and I’ve been to a lot of ’em, including all the top ones in NYC). Other places are more elegant, but with sushi, only one thing …Read More

Casa Mono

CASA MONO ( 52 Irving Place) Small, noisy and fabulous. Spanish “small plates” — which was a great way to build your own tasting menu without the drama. Fantastic wine lists of Spanish wine and sherry, from young to …Read More


VERITAS ( 43 East 20th St) I’ve been going there since is opened about 13 years ago. Perhaps the best wine list in NYC — but then again, that is why the restaurant was opened: it was to exploit …Read More

John Marshall: Definer of a Nation

The current debacle occurring in Congress acted as a reminder to re-read ( for about the fourth time since its publishing in 1998) my favorite US history book, this biography of John Marshall by Jean Edward Smith. If you have …Read More