Casa Lever


casa-leverWhen we arrive at Casa Lever (the sister restaurant of Sant Ambroeus) we are usually greeted by Antonio, the tall, elegant, Armani-clad manager from Milan who escorts you to your table. We are at Casa Lever principally because I love Vitelli Tonnato, and the most flavorful and artistic version in the city is on the Lever House menu — little petals of thinly sliced, succulent veal, accented with touches of red bell pepper, circle like Busby Berkeley chorus girls around a scoop of tuna with caper sauce. Pretty as a picture but much more tasty.

Susan usually has the Ricciola (hamachi) whose freshness and delicacy compete with the best Japanese versions. Although the restaurant has a variety of Pesce and Carne, we usually opt for the spaghetti carbonara, (their elegant version of the peasant dish) unless the special risotto of that evening is particularly enticing. Although there is a selection of interesting deserts, our choice generally comes from the selection of superb gelati and sorbettos. I should also mention the well-chosen, mostly European, wine list, and the large, evocative portraits from the Andy Warhol Collection (Alfred Hitchcock, Marylin Monroe and Nureyev, among others) which grace one entire wall of the restaurant.

Fred Rubinstein


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