London is changing. London is always changing. If it isn’t buyer’s remorse about the Brexit process, hard or soft, it is the indulgence in new restaurants, the Arts, Antique Shows etc.

Frieze is coming. PAD is opening. Olympia is pending. There is always something to do in the Global City (but just you wait as Brexit bites and we slowly ebb back to the Seventies). Evidence of this gentle falling away is looming in the corners of our minds. Do we know where we are going? Do we ever know where we are going? Despite being in the middle of all this existential angst, last night we dined at one of London’s little secret gems.

It is called Chucs. Chucs is the tiniest of restaurants in the heart of Mayfair on Dover Street. Chucs is the little sister of a chic restaurant in Westbourne Grove. We had heard of it from several friends who are devotees. Chucs is like Harry’s Bar without the glitz and the noise and the Fortuny on the walls. Chucs has seven tables. Chucs is like no other restaurant in the area. It is private without being a club. It is intimate without feeling claustrophobic.

It has a big bar if you like a drink after work or in the middle of the day. It has a staff of one or two in cute Middle European uniforms, white military jackets with gilded braid. The photos on the wall emit the full flavours of the South of France. Their other sister restaurant is in St. Tropez. It has a limited menu which is beautifully presented. My better half had pea soup with shaved truffles. We all had the thinnest of chicken paillardes with a couture helping of rucola and the sweetest of baby tomatoes on top. The bread was just as miniature and exquisite. We all shared a dessert of bitter chocolate ice cream with shaved chocolate chunks with real creme fraiche on the side. The fresh mint tea arrived in clear glass tea pots with glass cups, stunning. We dined as if in our own little protected paradise, and then left feeling ever so much better about everything. Oh, the wine we ordered by the glass was a wonderful Brunello in a stemless glass. Simple. Elegant. Direct. Relaxed.

As if that weren’t enough to linger in your mind, afterwards we noted they also have a boutique next door that sells gorgeous t-shirt like pullovers (sweaters to those of you from The New World).

I feel as if I am being indiscreet revealing this local favorite of those in the know. It compares favorably with our cherished Olivo restaurants in Belgravia.

Kaaren Hale

One Response to “Chucs”

  1. Hi Kaaren, I loved your review of Chucs, as well as Dover St. Market. My wife and I are making our annual (sometimes semi annual) theater fix trip to London in late November/December. I have been making my list of restaurants and we will definitely try Chucs.

    We are staying at The Stafford. What are your five favorite lunch and five favorite dinner places. We are an after theater dinner couple.

    If you don’t want to be “indiscreet,” you can email me at Thanks.


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