(Gastronomic) Letter from Los Angeles

We’re on our annual five weeks in Los Angeles, and the restaurant scene is the best since we’ve been coming here in 1967. Hinoki & the Bird is an Asian fusion-influenced place in Century City. We had lots of small plates, all of them excellent.The fried oysters stand out in my week-old memory. Small plates are the theme in L.A. now.

Manhattan Beach Post has the most wonderful brussel sprouts we’ve ever eaten, along with great lamb, amazing bacon cheddar biscuits served with maple syrup butter, and lots more. 

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The star so far has been Republique, which took over the old Campanile space on La Brea. Think wonderful French bistro, with a duck confit to die for.

And our neighborhood favorite Italian is Ado, which last night served us a Home-Made Red Beet Tagliolini Pasta in a Marsala Quail Ragù served on a bed of Taleggio Cheese Fondue. It was the best pasta we’ve had since last summer’s outing to the Isle of Capri.

Howard Morgan

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