Milos Restaurant - London

We have been vowing to visit the London version of Milos (fish restaurant) and last night was the night. It is a newer, glitzier, somehow less “spontaneous,” more-designed version of our New York favorite. The room is vast, white, has stunning architecture (old banking hall from the day) and is graced by several levels — the most desirable being the ground floor up a half flight of stairs to the left as you walk in. Do not dine on the upper level. The young servers were attractive, charming and attentive. The crowd was buzzy and good-looking. So far so good.

The fish display was impressive, every glistening fish with its proper Greek name (none that I can recall), and we were duly escorted to take a look and choose. The young waiter explained all the fishy features, texture, color, taste. So far so good.

I ordered a classic Greek salad. It was huge and gorgeous looking. However the tomatoes were somewhat mealy; the onions and dressing strong and bitter from having stood too long before serving. Charles’ choice of crisp romaine lettuce with dill was more successful. We chose deep-fried red mullets as the main course and they, though gloriously rosy, were somewhat dry.

Dessert was a delicious baklava with a cinnamon crust and a lovely rather small dab of rich cinnamon ice cream. The Santorini white wine we chose with the aid of the sommelier, Sauvignon blanc, demi sec, was a winner.

On the whole, Milos has big city atmosphere, fabulous and fun. Food was variable. We prefer our Italian favourite fish place off Bond Street, Assunta Madre. If you want the best fish in Britain, fresh, gloriously tender and delicious, go there. If you are looking for glamour and glitter (and the fish is okay), Milos is your place.

Kaaren Hale

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